Climbing Shoe Technology Explained

What’s in a Sole? Laces or VCR? Why is Asymmetry Important?

Do I Need a Downturn and Pre-Tensioning?

What do downturn and slingshot mean, is soft or hard rubber better, and what does the midsole actually do? When you’re looking for new climbing shoes, discuss your gear at the crag, or chat to others in a gym, you’ll find yourself confronted with all sorts of specialist climbing shoe jargon. This is because even though climbing shoes might seem to be simple products with a little rubber, some leather, and a pair of laces, hours of research and development work actually go into every single model. The right technological solutions and designs for the specific use have to be optimally coordinated to offer you the perfect weapon for your next successful climb.

A climbing shoe is made up of the following elements:

To understand your climbing shoes’ many features and the technologies that bring them to life, it is useful to take a look at the structure of a climbing shoe and see the names of the individual parts.

The great art of developers and designers lies in precisely combining and coordinating the various different materials and structures. In an ideal world, a climbing shoe should be able to do everything. As not everything is possible or useful though, we focus on creating the perfect balance between specific properties. In other words, we optimize every shoe for its specific purpose.

The right rubber compound for climbing shoe soles

Rubber compounds and their formulations are one of the best kept secrets in the climbing shoe industry. They are developed through weeks and months of research and fine tuning. After all, the rubber has a major impact on climbing shoes’ properties and ultimately on your performance on the wall.

Together with the midsole, the sole determines how soft and sensitive or hard and supportive a shoe is. As with many things, there is no all-round perfect solution. This is because a compound can be ideal or utterly useless depending on the requirements of the specific route or problem that you’re facing.

What distinguishes the different rubber compounds?

Soft rubber compounds offer excellent friction, are sensitive, and are ideal for standing on large volumes in the gym or on slabs, as well as for stepping on and hooking footholds on overhangs. Soft rubber wears quicker and offers less edge stability. Soft shoes can also help you improve your footwork as they teach you to feel the surface beneath your feet and train your motor skills and balance.

Those looking to stand on small edges, ledges, and holes need rubber that offers excellent edge stability and rigidity combined with an appropriate midsole to provide optimum precision for this kind of climbing.

In addition to extremely soft and hard versions, there are also rubber compounds that offer a good balance with different focuses. An all-rounder is not too soft, not too hard, and has good friction properties. Harder, more durable compounds that don’t wear as quickly and therefore retain their shape for longer are beneficial for continuous use in gyms, for example for rental use or long training sessions.

The Red Chili collection features the following rubber compounds, which are tailored to the requirements of the various climbing and bouldering uses: 

What's in a midsole? 

Between the outsole and the footbed is another important element that works closely with the former and affects the performance of a climbing shoe: the midsole.

The combination of the midsole and the outsole with an appropriate rubber compound determines a climbing or bouldering shoe’s rigidity, supportiveness, edge stability, and sensitivity. It can also help to generate more tension in the shoe.

The Red Chili collection features the following midsoles:

How the tension systems work

Welcome to the next level of specific climbing shoe technology: tension systems. Climbing shoes need tension to transfer power to the toes. It also provides stability and a firm fit, important for clean, powerful footwork. Tension is achieved through the interplay of different forms of workmanship, which are carefully coordinated to achieve the best performance for the desired use.

1. The asymmetry of climbing shoes 

If you look at a climbing shoe from above, you’ll see just how much the tip is offset from the straight line that runs between the middle of the heel and the midfoot. The greater the variation, the more asymmetrical the shoe. Pronounced asymmetry increases the tension on the inside and the power transmission to the big toes. It provides precision and stability, but also compromises on comfort. Asymmetry is primarily used for shoes in the HIGH-END and PERFORMANCE ranges to generate additional tension and a firmer fit. At the same time, asymmetry can promote extremely precise stepping on small ledges and offer the necessary tension to a particularly soft shoe with a minimal midsole. A neutral model is recommended for crack climbing as an asymmetrical shape allows less contact with the rock surface and makes it harder to jam the foot in cracks.

The Red Chili collection features the following styles:

2. What is the downturn in a climbing shoe? 

The downturn describes the extent to which the forefoot area is tilted downward. The greater the downturn, the more power is transferred to the toes, facilitating heel hooks and making it easier to stand on small footholds in overhanging terrain. On very steep terrain in particular, the curved shape makes it possible to hook or hold distant footholds with less energy and effort than with a very flat shoe. A soft shoe with a downturn is not particularly suitable for small footholds on verticals; in such cases, a flatter model with a somewhat harder sole is a better choice.

3. What is pre-tensioning in a climbing shoe? 

Pre-tensioning is achieved by the localized use of clamping rubber. This can run along the side, under the foot, diagonally, or round the heel toward the front. When using a slingshot, for example, the clamping rubber runs round the heel and toward the front. If the slingshot ends under the midfoot, it primarily provides a securely fitting heel. On the other hand, if the slingshot continues all the way to the forefoot, the entire foot is primarily pressed forwards into the toe box to encourage power transfer to the toes.

Red Chili makes the following differentiations:

What materials are found in climbing shoes?

Your climbing shoes are not only made up of rubber and the midsole, but also several textile elements: the upper, the tongue, the lining, and the footbed.

The upper: suede leather, microfiber, or a mix of the two

Suede leather offers the major advantage of being adaptable and having an accordingly pleasant feel. Climbing shoes with a high proportion of leather are therefore a good choice for anyone whose feet do not get along so well with climbing shoes or have possible malpositions, such as hallux valgus since they can stretch and give way in the problem areas. As a result, leather climbing shoes may expand over time, which you should consider when choosing the right shoe size.

A further benefit is that leather is more abrasion resistant than microfiber.  

Where even the smallest damage to synthetic fabrics such as microfiber can lead to the material separating more and more, with leather only individual fibers are damaged without affecting the surrounding area.

In addition, the suede leather typically used in climbing shoes has a rough surface, which means that the material is comfortable on the skin and adheres well. At the same time, the comparatively low breathability of the material means that you sweat earlier in climbing shoes with a high leather proportion.

Upper materials made of microfiber, on the other hand, can be developed to be much more breathable and dimensionally stable in accordance with the requirements. As a result, microfiber is used especially when the material is to achieve a desired property, such as high breathability, low stretch, or conversely elasticity with a lot of stretch. Materials made of synthetic microfiber are also the right alternative for those who do without animal materials. If your climbing shoes are labelled ‘vegan friendly’, we have only used vegan materials.

 

 

To combine the benefits, we also offer hybrid models made from a mix of leather and synthetic materials. A good example is the use of suede leather in the big toe area so that the shoe adapts to toe shape particularly well, while microfiber in the rest of the shoe provides dimensional stability and breathability.

Other materials, linings, and footbeds

We also make a conscious effort to use recycled materials, such as in the VENTIC AIR LACE, the textile elements of which are 100% recycled. Special inserts also provide additional functionality, for example in the Red Chili kids’ shoe PULPO, where a neoprene triangle protects the Achilles’ heel from pressure while also providing a secure fit.

As you may have already realized, there are lined and non-lined climbing shoes. With leather shoes, the lining helps make the shoe more dimensionally stable. Lining materials are also used as an extra layer to make the shoe more rigid and comfortable. For example, a footbed made from antibacterial hemp has a pleasant feel and creates a good climate.

 

Fastening systems: lace-up shoes, VCR shoes, or slippers

There are three different fastening systems: lace-up shoes, VCR shoes, and slippers. There are also hybrid solutions. When choosing the right shoes for you, your personal preferences, the ease of putting the shoes on and taking them off, the desired fit, and, of course, where you want to use your shoes, all play a role. 

Further elements of a climbing shoe 

Rand

The rand surrounds the foot, providing protection, edge stability, and thus general stability and strength. Depending on the intended purpose, thinner or thicker rubber is used. A thicker layer of harder rubber makes the shoe more stable and durable; a thinner layer of soft rubber increases the sensitivity. In our CHARGER, SESSION, and SESSION AIR shoes, for example, we use a double rand in the toe area, even with an indicator of when the shoes need resoling. A tip on fit: the greater a shoe’s rubber content, the more stable its shape, i.e. the less it will give, so the better it needs to fit.

Toe patch

As you have probably already realized, there are also shoes with different-height rands in different shapes, some of which are supplemented by toe patches. The rubber on the top of the toe box makes it easier to cleanly place and securely hold toe hooks.

IMPACT ZONE 

Some shoes also have an EVA foam wedge under the heel. This cushions forces when landing and encourages an upright position. It also makes the shoes more comfortable to wear on long routes. The ‘impact zone’ can be found in Red Chili’s SPIRIT and SPIRIT LV models.

Pull-On-Loops 

Robust loops make it easier to put shoes on and take them off. They can also be used to hang shoes on a climbing harness on multi-pitch climbs. Our rental shoes also come with press studs on the pull-on loops so the left and right shoes can be cleanly attached for storage, saving a lot of time when issuing shoes.