Interview

  • Climbing

    When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?

    I started Ice climbing in 2005. A friend died so I stopped climbing for years. Mountains were my passion, so I decided start bouldering and it became my life.

    Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

    I wanted to be Bibiana Jones (from Indiana Jones, the archeologist). Since I was a teenager I have looked for challenge, adventure and personal improvement, I have traveled alone for months, worked in 4 different countries and climbed through unimaginable places. And this was made possible by my open personality and motivation, what influences to other people. Good times and lots of motivation to reach their dreams.

    What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

    I became an architect and I worked in Innsbruck and Jordan, but nowadays I changed my life to become a mathematics professor and I enjoy it a lot.
    As a climber, what changed my life was to send an 7c boulder before one year of started climbing.

    What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

    I spend one year without my left arm mobility and the cause was the stress. So after learning that, I try to enjoy my life and my days, working to be happy (not worried!)

    What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?

    Malta, with Red Chili climbing crew! And also Rocklands with Kili, Anna, Zlu and all of them. But what I love the best is Fointainebleau once or twice per year.

  • Training

    Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

    No, one day I realized that I like climbing not training. So I try to climb outside as much as possible. On another hand is yoga, trying to practice it three days a week minimum.
    What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

    Stretch, stretch every day and listen what your body tells.

    What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

    Indoor has became another modality inside the climbing world. I used to say that I climb rock, multipitch, trad, sport climbing and bouldering, also ice climbing, but not indoor.... Another world, another stile, lots of show.. I enjoy it for a while, but not as a weekly thing.

    Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

    No.... :(
    How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

    I believe in effort and work, whether in the climbing wall or the gym, or on the rock, a good climber is one who dedicates time and effort. Abilities? of course they also count, but "whoever follows it gets it"

  • Climbing Psychology

    Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

    No, as I said, you need to work for it!

    How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

    A goal keeps you motivated and full of energy for training or sacrificing things to reach the dream. So for me is what keeps my day, my energy.... A dream, a goal is needed to live!

    How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

    I'm not good at having a project. If have to repeat and repeat the same movements and going to the same places... I got so demotivated. So that's one weak point of my personality that I want to solve and work.

  • Future of rock climbing

    Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

    Yes, the lack of respect for the discipline, avoiding this massive boom that climbing has had and that leads to finding garbage everywhere and bad practices in the forests.

    Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?

    Climbing will become as other sports as tennis, where people will not love the nature, just the fitness or the plastic. My role will be showing this new climbers how to appreciate mountains, the rock and all cultures and societies around.